Yes, we’re here again, after an absence of 20 years. Three weeks – Piemonte, Umbria and Venice. I could write about our initial bumps – the car we reserved ‘unavailable’, the agriturismo we reserved – not as advertised, but all that is history and we are having too good a time to give it another thought. We have moved to the stunning town/village of Barolo – yes, that Barolo. Our room at the Hotel Barolo looks out on the castle – beautiful as the light changes during the day and spectacular when lit at night. More on Barolo in another post.
The landscape in this part of Piemonte is beautiful beyond belief. Every inch of its rolling hills covered by vineyards, its lower slopes planted in hazelnut trees. It is nearly time for the harvest and the vines hang heavy with their loads of purple. On top of every hill is a castle surrounded by its attendant village. The whole thing looks like something out of a fairy tale.
Today’s adventure took us to the hill towns of Novello, Monforte, Roddino, Sineo and Serralunga. And an adventure it was, as Mark piloted our enormous Fiat Scudero (think large white ambulance size vehicle) on roads, some of which were barely wide enough for our monster. I am not joking. God was answering my fervant prayers that we not meet another car. With ditches or drop offs on either side of our narrow lane/road, I have no idea what we would have done. Mark is my hero and I’m sure his Italian grandfather is looking down and shouting “Bravo!” as he manhandles our behemoth, demonstrating true Italian driving genes.
The road from Barolo climbs the steep hill to Novello with a church erected in the 1700s, all pink and gold and baroque, and huge for a village of Novello’s size. And then there is the castello, a wedding cake of a building. It is supposed to be a hotel, but appeared deserted, though windows to rooms on its upper floors were open. Mysterious.
But Serralunga and its castle were the highlights of our day. A true medieval masterpiece, built by the Fallerti family in 1350 on one of their 50 properties. It’s defenses are amazing, but it was sacked by the Spanish in 1616. It was never ‘remodeled’ and thus remains a rare example of a true medieval fortress with living quarters. Our excellent tour was in Italian. I was so happy that I understood almost everything.
Much more to come – especially on the FOOD and WINE!!!!!!!
Buona sera for now.
Fantastic!