Where to begin?  Someone in Washington told us we would find Saudi Arabia ‘like the moon with oxygen’.  He was right – however, if you’re a women the amount of oxygen is strictly rationed.

It took us about 24 hours to get here, what with our layover in Zurich, so we all arrived pretty wiped out.  Bleary eyed, we stumbled into the terminal to be met by embassy expediters and wisked into the VIP lounge – not the real, ROYAL, VIP lounge, but VIP lounge none the less.  Beige stone, carpets, chandeliers, burgundy velvet upholstered furniture so low I had to do a deep knee bend and then some to sit down.  The only other occupants were Saudi men dressed in their white ‘thobes’ – long robes, with the red checkered scarf and black headpiece to hold it on – think Yassar Arrafat.  Actually their mocha skin, black mustaches, and black eyes are stunning against the white.  Very becoming garb.  Two of the American staff there to meet us – women –  were in abayas.  They had brought us loaners – mine was about a foot too long.  Eventually we were led to the embassy vans – fully armored – and taken to the Intercontinental.

It is Ramadan here, so breakfast for the infidels is well hidden away from 2005_1225060116those fasting – down a long corridor to another building, up to the 6th floor, down another corridor and behind a screen,  is a lovely room overlooking the city with a buffet of all you shouldn’t eat – pastries, smoked salmon, cheeses, lots of middle-eastern thing, beef bacon, turkey sausages, fried potatoes and eggs to order.  On my NEW regime, I pass all this up for excellent fresh fruit, low fat, very good yogurt which I top with honey, and a slice of fresh whole grain bread.   This huge hotel is nearly empty, as far as we can tell.  Maybe because of Ramadan.

For the Saudi’s Ramadan fasting starts at about 3:30 a.m. – when you can distinguish a black thread from a white thread.  It lasts until about 5:30 – sunset.  One breaks the fast by consuming a few dates and water.  If you happen to be driving at sunset, there are boys at traffic lights handing out little boxes with a bottle of water and dates.  A charming touch.

After sundown,  the sky’s the limit.  One evening our group ate the Iftar feast set out around the pool at the Intercontinental.  Amazing!  Long tables with ice sculptures and flowers, laden with dishes of middle eastern specialties –  a whole table dedicated to Morrocan dishes(stewed pigeons (very tiny), excellent couscous with chick peas and candied onions, veal stew, beef cooked with prunes, harissa.   Another section was for grilled marinated meats – beef and lamb on skewers, and another section for pastas(!) with four  sauce choices.  Then there was the dessert table – western style mouses, cakes and tarts, plus all the middle eastern honey soaked pastries and honey balls.  That meal is served from 5:30 to 8:00.  There’s also the pre-fast meal from midnight to 3 a.m.  I haven’t stayed up for that experience.
The temperature has fallen into the 90’s during the day.  Although it is so very dry here, that’s  still pretty brutal under the desert sun – especially when drinking water is forbidden.  Those who can afford it go on reduced Ramadan hours or don’t work at all.  It’s difficult to find government counterparts to do business with.  The men’s loose white cotton robe and head protection is well suited to the heat – which gets up to 120 or so during the summer.
I can’t think of a less appropriate garment for Saudi women.  The abayas 2005_1225060098are black polyester and heads are often covered first by a black polyester mask arrangement and then wrapped in a black polyester scarf.  As I’m in the Embassy all day, I have worn my abaya  (a new one of proper length), without mask,  only in the evening when it is relatively cool.  But still, with my head covered  I feel as if I’m being poached.  Last night we had a quick tour of the gold market in the souk.  (They tell us we are relatively safe if guided by an embassy employee, if we don’t retrace our steps and if we are  in and out in less than 45 minutes.)  In poaching mode, I let my head covering slip to my shoulders, and almost immediately an open jeep filled with religious police pulled along side  us, all its occupants shouting and pointing at me.  Very unnerving.  I will remain poached.